Science of Surfing
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What do channels actually do under your board?
It might be embarrassing to admit: I ride a channel-bottomed board and I can’t feel them.
Apr 27
•
Kevin Okun
6
2
How do wave buoys work?
Wave buoys don’t look like much more than your standard ocean-floatin’ buoy, but they are clever little devices.
Apr 20
•
Kevin Okun
3
What's the carbon footprint of your surfboard?
Wax up, strap on the leash, and click in the fins.
Apr 13
•
Kevin Okun
3
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Why do some waves barrel?
Jan 20, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
9
4
3
Should you spread your fingers when paddling?
Feb 2
•
Kevin Okun
11
1
1
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
Sep 8, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
4
1
How are waves formed?
Dec 2, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
9
5
1
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
May 12, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
8
3
1
What causes these lines of smooth water?
May 5, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
7
1
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Discussions
How much does wax weigh down your surfboard?
After a few months, wax on boards starts to resemble the layers of rock on the cliffside.
Apr 6
•
Kevin Okun
5
1
Why is the top layer of sand crunchy?
Growing up in Florida, two things about the sand stuck out: it’ll burn the shit out of your feet and the top layer has a thin crunchy crust.
Mar 30
•
Kevin Okun
2
1
Why is there more backwash at high tide?
Low tide beach break is generally forgiving.
Mar 23
•
Kevin Okun
6
2
What causes seasickness?
Mal de mer, kinetosis, seasickness.
Mar 16
•
Kevin Okun
4
Why Do We Know So Little About the Southern Hemisphere Ocean?
About 90% of the global human population lives north of the equator.
Mar 9
•
Kevin Okun
5
Why Is the Ocean Warmer on the East Coast Than the West Coast?
Virginia Beach and San Francisco sit at nearly the same latitude.
Mar 2
•
Kevin Okun
4
Why is the Atlantic saltier than the Pacific?
The Atlantic runs about 1-2 parts per thousand saltier than the Pacific.
Feb 23
•
Kevin Okun
2
Where Does Sand Come From?
Most of the sand on California beaches started as mountain.
Feb 16
•
Kevin Okun
Why do surfers grow bone in their ears?
Neanderthals didn’t surf (allegedly), but they had surfer’s ear.
Feb 9
•
Kevin Okun
8
2
1
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Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
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