Archive - Science of Surfing

Why do some waves barrel?

I may have gotten ahead of myself last week, with the last article focusing on how wind affects the shape of a barreling wave.

Jan 20 •

How are waves formed?

Every wave starts somewhere - from wind chop to the bombing sets at outer reefs.

Dec 2, 2024 •

How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?

If you've ever overheard surfers talking about the best conditions, you've probably heard conflicting opinions about tides.

Sep 8, 2024 •

Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?

Speed, acceleration, stability, turning - all these qualities we seek in surfing are dramatically shaped by those plastic buggers sticking out from the…

May 12 •

Where are the largest waves in the world?

I'm playing with technicalities here - I didn't say surfable waves in the title.

Mar 17 •

Does kelp make a break more glassy?

Though kelp seems determined to turn your paddle out into a tangled mess, with its grubby little kelp hands holding onto your leash for dear life, it’s…

Oct 7, 2024 •

Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?

When you're picking fins for your surfboard, you're probably not thinking about pilot whales.

May 19 •

How is wave height measured?

Take a friend to check out a break, and you are likely to disagree on the wave height.

Mar 31 •

Where does the sound of breaking waves come from?

The foam trailing behind a breaking wave can disappear in seconds or linger for minutes, depending on what’s dissolved in the water around you.

Oct 13 •

Why do boards paddle slow but ride fast?

Paddling out can feel like pushing a brick through molasses.

Oct 20 •

What causes these lines of smooth water?

Looking out from a cliff over the ocean, you've probably noticed those peculiar patches of glassy water breaking up the surface chop.

May 5 •

What causes rip currents?

The classic description of a rip current involves a break in the sand bar or reef, but rips can also be caused by waves over a uniform bottom.

Oct 14, 2024 •

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