practical knowledge of surfboard design and precise performance feedback from the best surfers in the world over several generations. The science and data so far, based on your piece, have only got as far as what every shaper already knows. I suspect the
leap to being able to lead innovation is greater than you think.
Did you see this?
https://www.quantamagazine.org/the-hidden-math-of-ocean-waves-crashes-into-view-20251015/
Those educated “guesses” have come from a deep
practical knowledge of surfboard design and precise performance feedback from the best surfers in the world over several generations. The science and data so far, based on your piece, have only got as far as what every shaper already knows. I suspect the
leap to being able to lead innovation is greater than you think.