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Lindsey Holland's avatar

I’m out in Ireland at the moment on a bit of a roady and it’s my first time surfing in a hood with boots and gloves. It’s been a mega adaptation for me! I’ve got the Finisterre 5mm and I couldn’t be warmer but man it’s tight!! I absolutely agree on the proprioceptive feedback front, I’ve felt very ‘in’ my body which is its own learning curve out there

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blindboy's avatar

Interesting in an abstract kind of way. As a science teacher and life long surfer, I have always taken an interest in the science. I think the major scientific contributions to surfing have come from research on other issues. For my money, the advances in materials and weather forecasting have had massive impacts. The standardisation and precision of compterised design and shaping have also been influential, though the bigger picture is that surfboard design has never developed from a theoretical base. Trial and error and a selection process related to evolution have been dominant.

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