Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
Why do waves break (mostly) parallel to the coast?
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Why do waves break (mostly) parallel to the…

Kevin Okun
Oct 28, 2024
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Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
Why do waves break (mostly) parallel to the coast?
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Wave refraction plays a large roll of how swells enter the surf zone - and in how they break.

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