What is the Science of Surfing?
Science of Surfing is a weekly newsletter where a Scripps-trained oceanographer answers the questions surfers actually ask: why some waves barrel, when shark attacks happen, whether rivers have waves, why the wind turns offshore in the afternoon.
As an oceanographer, my professional writing is deeply rooted in research, where each statement requires solid evidence. This approach provides a helpful structure but can also be limiting due to its rigorous nature.
Here, I explore oceanic topics and surf-related science more freely. I'll cover subjects ranging from wave dynamics to marine life, from the impact of climate change on surf breaks to the difference in surf wax temperatures. While I'll link to original sources for figures and suggest further reading, I'm avoiding extensive citations. My aim is to write more openly about my, and hopefully your, oceanic curiosities.
Each Monday morning, I'll share an article centered on a single question, drawing upon a few key oceanographic or related scientific concepts. The goal is to offer easily digestible explanations of surf-related phenomena. I hope you'll find these weekly insights both informative and engaging. Who knows, maybe it’ll help you do an air or something.
Start here
A few favorites and the posts readers find most:
Who am I?
I am a physicist-turned-oceanographer through surfing. I received my PhD in Applied Ocean Science from the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego, California in May of 2026. I have a B.S. in Physics from UC Santa Barbara and an M.S. in Applied Ocean Science from Scripps.
My PhD thesis focused on the predictability of internal waves and their effects on near-shore currents along the coast in San Diego. I also developed machine learning algorithms for automated detection of nonlinear internal waves.
At Scripps, I have supported various projects, including: shallow water air-sea interactions, currents and turbulence through kelp fields, sediment heat diffusion on sparsely covered coral reefs, deployment of a very large fiber optic array, and numerous dive operations.
In past positions, I have built and simulated sensors for high-energy and particle physics, photonics, quantum material science, and oceanography experiments. Every single one of those has been focused on waves of some sort.
My photography can be found on the Science of Surfing Instagram, @scienceofsurfing, and my website, kevinokun.com.
