Archive - Science of Surfing

November 2024

What causes the green flash?

What is all of this nonsense about the sun turning green at sunset?

Nov 25 •

Should you pee on a jellyfish sting?

Unless you are trying to play a prank on your poor friend, urine is not the answer for jellyfish stings.

Nov 18 •

What is a wave?

Waves are everywhere, from in your coffee mug to the light bouncing off this screen. Learn about all kinds of waves and how they relate to surfing.

Nov 11 •

How do swells interact with underwater canyons?

Common wisdom says that the waves are funneled up the canyon, but that is not true - swells avoid canyons due to refraction.

Nov 4 •

October 2024

Why do waves break (mostly) parallel to the coast?

Wave refraction plays a large roll of how swells enter the surf zone - and in how they break.

Oct 28 •

What is sustainability?

Citing that something is sustainable without saying for whom or for how long is false advertising.

Oct 21 •

What causes rip currents?

The classic description of a rip current involves a break in the sand bar or reef, but rips can also be caused by waves over a uniform bottom.

Oct 14 •

Does kelp make a break more glassy?

Though kelp seems determined to turn your paddle out into a tangled mess, with its grubby little kelp hands holding onto your leash for dear life, it’s…

Oct 7 •

September 2024

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