Science of Surfing

Why is El Niño so hard to predict?

Forecasting is hard.

Dec 15 • Kevin Okun

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What is El Niño?

Peruvian fishermen noticed it over a century ago.

Dec 8 • Kevin Okun

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How much of surfing is actually surfing?

We oceanographers love decomposing things.

Dec 1 • Kevin Okun

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November 2025

How much do fins flex during surfing?

A few weeks back, we covered the German study that measured pressure on fins during surfing, recording up to 300 N of force creating lift during turns.

Nov 24 • Kevin Okun

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Are there tides in the atmosphere?

The atmosphere has tides, though you’ve never felt one and probably never will.

Nov 17 • Kevin Okun

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When do shark attacks occur?

Dawn patrol is special.

Nov 10 • Kevin Okun

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Do electric shark deterrents work?

Tiger sharks, those apex predators with jaws powerful enough to bite through turtle shells, turned out to be the picky eaters of the group.

Nov 3 • Kevin Okun

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October 2025

How much pressure is on your fins?

Researchers embedded pressure sensors in a surfboard fin to measure hydrodynamic forces for the first time, revealing 70 pounds of force during turns.

Oct 27 • Kevin Okun

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Why do boards paddle slow but ride fast?

Paddling out can feel like pushing a brick through molasses.

Oct 20 • Kevin Okun

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Where does the sound of breaking waves come from?

The foam trailing behind a breaking wave can disappear in seconds or linger for minutes, depending on what’s dissolved in the water around you.

Oct 13 • Kevin Okun

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What causes mirages over water?

From the beach, you spot a boat on the horizon that appears to hover several feet above the water’s surface.

Oct 6 • Kevin Okun

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September 2025

What are marine heatwaves?

Summer is coming to a close and the water temperature is at its most variable here in San Diego.

Sep 29 • Kevin Okun

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