Archive - Science of Surfing

May 2025

Fins Part Three: Why choose a thruster setup?

That subtle vibration through your board during a heavy bottom turn isn't just in your head.

May 26 •

Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?

When you're picking fins for your surfboard, you're probably not thinking about pilot whales.

May 19 •

Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?

Speed, acceleration, stability, turning - all these qualities we seek in surfing are dramatically shaped by those plastic buggers sticking out from the…

May 12 •

What causes these lines of smooth water?

Looking out from a cliff over the ocean, you've probably noticed those peculiar patches of glassy water breaking up the surface chop.

May 5 •

April 2025

What happens when marketing meets science?

Determining what will happen in a system as complex as weather or the ocean is a Herculean task.

Apr 28 •

How can we make warmer wetsuits?

The quick answer is make them thicker, but that’s not a very exciting thing to read on your Monday morning.

Apr 21 •

Why do piers have rips?

Recently, I was surfing at Scripps Pier when I experienced the peculiar power of pier rips firsthand.

Apr 14 •

What is happening to the marine mammals in Southern California?

Recently, hundreds of sea lions and dolphins have washed up along the coast of Southern California - significantly more than usual.

Apr 7 •

March 2025

How is wave height measured?

Take a friend to check out a break, and you are likely to disagree on the wave height.

Mar 31 •

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