Science of Surfing

Can you get seasick on a surfboard?

Mal de mer, kinetosis, seasickness.

Mar 16 • Kevin Okun

Why Do We Know So Little About the Southern Hemisphere Ocean?

About 90% of the global human population lives north of the equator.

Mar 9 • Kevin Okun

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Why Is the Ocean Warmer on the East Coast Than the West Coast?

Virginia Beach and San Francisco sit at nearly the same latitude.

Mar 2 • Kevin Okun

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February 2026

Why is the Atlantic saltier than the Pacific?

The Atlantic runs about 1-2 parts per thousand saltier than the Pacific.

Feb 23 • Kevin Okun

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Where Does Sand Come From?

Most of the sand on California beaches started as mountain.

Feb 16 • Kevin Okun

Why do surfers grow bone in their ears?

Neanderthals didn’t surf (allegedly), but they had surfer’s ear.

Feb 9 • Kevin Okun

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Should you spread your fingers when paddling?

Paddling is most of what we do out there. Between paddling out, jockeying for position, and chasing down waves, your hands spend far more time in the…

Feb 2 • Kevin Okun

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January 2026

Why does cold water make you need to pee?

It’s about time we all come clean: sometimes we start peeing in our wetsuits when our feet first touch cold water.

Jan 26 • Kevin Okun

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What's the difference between swells and waves?

We surfers tend to use the terms interchangeably.

Jan 19 • Kevin Okun

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How do currents change waves?

Anyone who has entered or exited between some jetties on a boat knows the ride changes with the tide.

Jan 12 • Kevin Okun

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Why do waves come in sets?

Waves arrive in groups because they’re born in groups.

Jan 5 • Kevin Okun

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December 2025

What's inside your surfboard?

Crack a board in half and you’ll find roughly the same thing whether it costs $100 or $1,200: foam wrapped in fiberglass.

Dec 29, 2025 • Kevin Okun

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