Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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What do you want to know next?

What makes for a successful air?

How often are there sharks near you?

Why does the ocean smell like ocean?

How are waves formed?

What causes the green flash?

Should you pee on a jellyfish sting?

What is a wave?

How do swells interact with underwater canyons?

Why do waves break (mostly) parallel to the coast?

What is sustainability?

What causes rip currents?

Does kelp make a break more glassy?

How does sunscreen work?

Why do pelicans surf?

What is the marine layer?

Have we discovered all of the surf breaks?

Why do jetties have good breaks?

Why is the wind offshore in the afternoon?

Why is the water so cold in the summer? Part II

Why is the water so cold in the summer? Part I

How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?

© 2025 Kevin Okun
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