Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Why do some waves barrel?
 • Kevin Okun
4
How are waves formed?
 • Kevin Okun
6
Where are the largest waves in the world?
 • Kevin Okun
2
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
 • Kevin Okun
What causes rip currents?
 • Kevin Okun
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
 • Kevin Okun
2
Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 2
Last week, we introduced the idea that coastal trapped waves, not surface tides, drive the dominant tidal frequency currents in San Diego's inner shelf…
 • 
Kevin Okun
1
Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 1
We're going to take a break from fins for a bit.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Fins Part Four: Why choose a quad setup?
If three fins are so good, four must be better, right?
 • 
Kevin Okun
3
Fins Part Three: Why choose a thruster setup?
That subtle vibration through your board during a heavy bottom turn isn't just in your head.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?
When you're picking fins for your surfboard, you're probably not thinking about pilot whales.
 • 
Kevin Okun
6
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
Speed, acceleration, stability, turning - all these qualities we seek in surfing are dramatically shaped by those plastic buggers sticking out from the…
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
What causes these lines of smooth water?
Looking out from a cliff over the ocean, you've probably noticed those peculiar patches of glassy water breaking up the surface chop.
 • 
Kevin Okun
Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.

Science of Surfing

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