Science of Surfing
Subscribe
Sign in
Home
Archive
About
Where does wave energy go?
The waves we surf come from near and far, generated by winds pulling at the water's surface.
Jul 7
•
Kevin Okun
3
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Where does wave energy go?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
Why does light dance underwater?
When you look at the seafloor on a sunny day, the light seems to dance all over.
Jun 30
•
Kevin Okun
2
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Why does light dance underwater?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
Why don't coastal currents follow the tide? Part 3
We've covered the motivation and the field work of this project. Now comes the payoff - what did all those measurements actually tell us about the…
Jun 23
•
Kevin Okun
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Why don't coastal currents follow the tide? Part 3
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
Most Popular
View all
Why do some waves barrel?
Jan 20
•
Kevin Okun
10
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Why do some waves barrel?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
4
How are waves formed?
Dec 2, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
9
Share this post
Science of Surfing
How are waves formed?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
6
Where are the largest waves in the world?
Mar 17
•
Kevin Okun
8
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Where are the largest waves in the world?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
2
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
Sep 8, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
4
Share this post
Science of Surfing
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
What causes rip currents?
Oct 14, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
8
Share this post
Science of Surfing
What causes rip currents?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
Oct 7, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
8
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
2
Latest
Top
Discussions
Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 2
Last week, we introduced the idea that coastal trapped waves, not surface tides, drive the dominant tidal frequency currents in San Diego's inner shelf…
Jun 16
•
Kevin Okun
6
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 2
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
1
Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 1
We're going to take a break from fins for a bit.
Jun 9
•
Kevin Okun
4
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 1
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
2
Fins Part Four: Why choose a quad setup?
If three fins are so good, four must be better, right?
Jun 2
•
Kevin Okun
3
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Fins Part Four: Why choose a quad setup?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
3
Fins Part Three: Why choose a thruster setup?
That subtle vibration through your board during a heavy bottom turn isn't just in your head.
May 26
•
Kevin Okun
4
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Fins Part Three: Why choose a thruster setup?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
2
Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?
When you're picking fins for your surfboard, you're probably not thinking about pilot whales.
May 19
•
Kevin Okun
6
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
6
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
Speed, acceleration, stability, turning - all these qualities we seek in surfing are dramatically shaped by those plastic buggers sticking out from the…
May 12
•
Kevin Okun
6
Share this post
Science of Surfing
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
2
What causes these lines of smooth water?
Looking out from a cliff over the ocean, you've probably noticed those peculiar patches of glassy water breaking up the surface chop.
May 5
•
Kevin Okun
5
Share this post
Science of Surfing
What causes these lines of smooth water?
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
See all
Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.
Subscribe
Science of Surfing
Subscribe
About
Archive
Recommendations
Sitemap
Share this publication
scienceofsurfing
Science of Surfing
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
Share
Copy link
Facebook
Email
Notes
More
This site requires JavaScript to run correctly. Please
turn on JavaScript
or unblock scripts