Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?
When you're picking fins for your surfboard, you're probably not thinking about pilot whales.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
Speed, acceleration, stability, turning - all these qualities we seek in surfing are dramatically shaped by those plastic buggers sticking out from the…
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Kevin Okun
2
What causes these lines of smooth water?
Looking out from a cliff over the ocean, you've probably noticed those peculiar patches of glassy water breaking up the surface chop.
 • 
Kevin Okun
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Why do some waves barrel?
 • Kevin Okun
4
How are waves formed?
 • Kevin Okun
6
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
 • Kevin Okun
What causes rip currents?
 • Kevin Okun
Where are the largest waves in the world?
 • Kevin Okun
2
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
 • Kevin Okun
2
What happens when marketing meets science?
Determining what will happen in a system as complex as weather or the ocean is a Herculean task.
 • 
Kevin Okun
1
How can we make warmer wetsuits?
The quick answer is make them thicker, but that’s not a very exciting thing to read on your Monday morning.
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Kevin Okun
6
Why do piers have rips?
Recently, I was surfing at Scripps Pier when I experienced the peculiar power of pier rips firsthand.
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Kevin Okun
3
What is happening to the marine mammals in Southern California?
Recently, hundreds of sea lions and dolphins have washed up along the coast of Southern California - significantly more than usual.
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Kevin Okun
2
How is wave height measured?
Take a friend to check out a break, and you are likely to disagree on the wave height.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Why is paddling easier on a bigger board?
This one is going to get a big "duh" from everyone - of course it's a whole lot easier to paddle a bigger board.
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Kevin Okun
2
Where are the largest waves in the world?
I'm playing with technicalities here - I didn't say surfable waves in the title.
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Kevin Okun
2
Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
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