Science of Surfing
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Why is water colder near the poles?
It’s well known that the poles are much colder than the equator, but some may not know why.
Jul 13
•
Kevin Okun
3
1
Why do some waves hold you down longer than others?
Wiping out on an average day tends to leave the ocean spitting you back out pretty quickly.
Jul 6
•
Kevin Okun
4
Should you sharpen your fins?
Absolutely not.
Jun 29
•
Kevin Okun
7
1
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Why do some waves barrel?
Jan 20, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
9
4
3
Should you spread your fingers when paddling?
Feb 2
•
Kevin Okun
11
1
1
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
Sep 8, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
4
1
How are waves formed?
Dec 2, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
9
5
1
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
May 12, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
8
3
1
When do shark attacks occur?
Nov 10, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
5
1
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Why is the water sometimes glassy after a set?
For our 100th article here, we’re going to try to answer this question that has been on my mind for about 5 years now.
Jun 22
•
Kevin Okun
6
1
What makes the V shapes in the sand when waves recede?
Getting more into surf fishing recently, I’ve spent a lot of time at the water’s edge.
Jun 15
•
Kevin Okun
2
Do offshore wind farms ruin the surf?
Wind farms are going up off both coasts, and the first thought for a small minority of the world is whether a few hundred turbines parked on the horizon…
Jun 8
•
Kevin Okun
4
1
What makes up a PhD in oceanography?
On Thursday, I defended my PhD in Applied Ocean Science at Scripps Institution of Oceanography.
Jun 1
•
Kevin Okun
8
2
What does a warmer ocean do to June Gloom?
The northeast Pacific is the warmest it has ever been recorded, but May Gray rolled in this year anyway, right on schedule.
May 25
•
Kevin Okun
2
Why do long-period swells last longer than short-period swells?
Short period swells with some size have been really fun lately.
May 18
•
Kevin Okun
5
3
Why does water drain out of your nose hours after surfing?
After a recent shore break-y day at Blacks, water up the nose has been in my mind. You know the deal: a few hours after a session, you’re at work or…
May 11
•
Kevin Okun
7
1
Why are seabirds washing up on California beaches?
Recently, Brandt’s cormorants have been walking up to people on California beaches, an odd behavior for these birds.
May 4
•
Kevin Okun
1
1
What do channels actually do under your board?
It might be embarrassing to admit: I ride a channel-bottomed board and I can’t feel them.
Apr 27
•
Kevin Okun
6
2
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Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
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