Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Why do some waves barrel?
 • Kevin Okun
4
How are waves formed?
 • Kevin Okun
6
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
 • Kevin Okun
What causes rip currents?
 • Kevin Okun
Where are the largest waves in the world?
 • Kevin Okun
2
What do you want to know next?
 • Kevin Okun
What is happening to the marine mammals in Southern California?
Recently, hundreds of sea lions and dolphins have washed up along the coast of Southern California - significantly more than usual.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
How is wave height measured?
Take a friend to check out a break, and you are likely to disagree on the wave height.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Why is paddling easier on a bigger board?
This one is going to get a big "duh" from everyone - of course it's a whole lot easier to paddle a bigger board.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Where are the largest waves in the world?
I'm playing with technicalities here - I didn't say surfable waves in the title.
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
Why does hot water help stingray stings?
Ask a non-surfer what animal they're most afraid of in the water, and you'll likely hear "sharks." Ask a surfer, and you'll likely get "stingrays…
 • 
Kevin Okun
Why is shoulder pain so common in surfers?
The average surf session involves far more paddling than actual wave riding.
 • 
Kevin Okun
6
How does a wetsuit affect your paddling?
A 2015 study by Jeff Nessler and colleagues at Cal State San Marcos investigated how wetsuits affect our paddling mechanics. While thicker suits like…
 • 
Kevin Okun
7
Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.

Science of Surfing

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