Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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How much do fins flex during surfing?
A few weeks back, we covered the German study that measured pressure on fins during surfing, recording up to 300 N of force creating lift during turns.
Nov 24 • 
Kevin Okun
Are there tides in the atmosphere?
The atmosphere has tides, though you’ve never felt one and probably never will.
Nov 17 • 
Kevin Okun
When do shark attacks occur?
Dawn patrol is special.
Nov 10 • 
Kevin Okun
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Why do some waves barrel?
Jan 20 • Kevin Okun
How are waves formed?
Dec 2, 2024 • Kevin Okun
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
Sep 8, 2024 • Kevin Okun
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
May 12 • Kevin Okun
Where are the largest waves in the world?
Mar 17 • Kevin Okun
How is wave height measured?
Mar 31 • Kevin Okun
Do electric shark deterrents work?
Tiger sharks, those apex predators with jaws powerful enough to bite through turtle shells, turned out to be the picky eaters of the group.
Nov 3 • 
Kevin Okun
How much pressure is on your fins?
Researchers embedded pressure sensors in a surfboard fin to measure hydrodynamic forces for the first time, revealing 70 pounds of force during turns.
Oct 27 • 
Kevin Okun
Why do boards paddle slow but ride fast?
Paddling out can feel like pushing a brick through molasses.
Oct 20 • 
Kevin Okun
Where does the sound of breaking waves come from?
The foam trailing behind a breaking wave can disappear in seconds or linger for minutes, depending on what’s dissolved in the water around you.
Oct 13 • 
Kevin Okun
What causes mirages over water?
From the beach, you spot a boat on the horizon that appears to hover several feet above the water’s surface.
Oct 6 • 
Kevin Okun
What are marine heatwaves?
Summer is coming to a close and the water temperature is at its most variable here in San Diego.
Sep 29 • 
Kevin Okun
Why do hurricanes spin (counter)clockwise?
Pull up any satellite image of a hurricane approaching the US East Coast and you'll see that unmistakable counterclockwise spiral.
Sep 22 • 
Kevin Okun
Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.

Science of Surfing

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