Science of Surfing
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What does a warmer ocean do to June Gloom?
The northeast Pacific is the warmest it has ever been recorded, but May Gray rolled in this year anyway, right on schedule.
May 25
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Kevin Okun
2
Why do long-period swells last longer than short-period swells?
Short period swells with some size have been really fun lately.
May 18
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Kevin Okun
4
3
Why does water drain out of your nose hours after surfing?
After a recent shore break-y day at Blacks, water up the nose has been in my mind. You know the deal: a few hours after a session, you’re at work or…
May 11
•
Kevin Okun
7
1
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Why do some waves barrel?
Jan 20, 2025
•
Kevin Okun
9
4
3
Should you spread your fingers when paddling?
Feb 2
•
Kevin Okun
11
1
1
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
Sep 8, 2024
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Kevin Okun
4
1
How are waves formed?
Dec 2, 2024
•
Kevin Okun
9
5
1
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
May 12, 2025
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Kevin Okun
8
3
1
When do shark attacks occur?
Nov 10, 2025
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Kevin Okun
5
1
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Why are seabirds washing up on California beaches?
Recently, Brandt’s cormorants have been walking up to people on California beaches, an odd behavior for these birds.
May 4
•
Kevin Okun
1
1
What do channels actually do under your board?
It might be embarrassing to admit: I ride a channel-bottomed board and I can’t feel them.
Apr 27
•
Kevin Okun
6
2
How do wave buoys work?
Wave buoys don’t look like much more than your standard ocean-floatin’ buoy, but they are clever little devices.
Apr 20
•
Kevin Okun
3
What's the carbon footprint of your surfboard?
Wax up, strap on the leash, and click in the fins.
Apr 13
•
Kevin Okun
3
How much does wax weigh down your surfboard?
After a few months, wax on boards starts to resemble the layers of rock on the cliffside.
Apr 6
•
Kevin Okun
6
1
Why is the top layer of sand crunchy?
Growing up in Florida, two things about the sand stuck out: it’ll burn the shit out of your feet and the top layer has a thin crunchy crust.
Mar 30
•
Kevin Okun
2
1
Why is there more backwash at high tide?
Low tide beach break is generally forgiving.
Mar 23
•
Kevin Okun
6
2
What causes seasickness?
Mal de mer, kinetosis, seasickness.
Mar 16
•
Kevin Okun
4
Why Do We Know So Little About the Southern Hemisphere Ocean?
About 90% of the global human population lives north of the equator.
Mar 9
•
Kevin Okun
5
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Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
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