Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 2
Last week, we introduced the idea that coastal trapped waves, not surface tides, drive the dominant tidal frequency currents in San Diego's inner shelf…
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Kevin Okun
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Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 1
We're going to take a break from fins for a bit.
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Kevin Okun
2
Fins Part Four: Why choose a quad setup?
If three fins are so good, four must be better, right?
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Kevin Okun
2
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Why do some waves barrel?
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How are waves formed?
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6
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
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What causes rip currents?
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Where are the largest waves in the world?
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2
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
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Fins Part Three: Why choose a thruster setup?
That subtle vibration through your board during a heavy bottom turn isn't just in your head.
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Kevin Okun
2
Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?
When you're picking fins for your surfboard, you're probably not thinking about pilot whales.
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Kevin Okun
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Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
Speed, acceleration, stability, turning - all these qualities we seek in surfing are dramatically shaped by those plastic buggers sticking out from the…
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Kevin Okun
2
What causes these lines of smooth water?
Looking out from a cliff over the ocean, you've probably noticed those peculiar patches of glassy water breaking up the surface chop.
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Kevin Okun
What happens when marketing meets science?
Determining what will happen in a system as complex as weather or the ocean is a Herculean task.
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Kevin Okun
1
How can we make warmer wetsuits?
The quick answer is make them thicker, but that’s not a very exciting thing to read on your Monday morning.
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Kevin Okun
4
Why do piers have rips?
Recently, I was surfing at Scripps Pier when I experienced the peculiar power of pier rips firsthand.
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Kevin Okun
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Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
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