Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

Home
Archive
About
Most Popular
View all
Why do some waves barrel?
 • Kevin Okun
4
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
 • Kevin Okun
How are waves formed?
 • Kevin Okun
6
Where are the largest waves in the world?
 • Kevin Okun
2
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
 • Kevin Okun
2
Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?
 • Kevin Okun
3
What makes tsunamis different from the waves we surf?
The word tsunami literally means "harbor wave" in Japanese, which tells you something about where these waves become most dangerous.
 • 
Kevin Okun
1
What have we learned this past year and what's next?
A year ago, we started asking questions that probably pop into every surfer's head at some point.
 • 
Kevin Okun
1
What would surfing be like on the Moon?
Let's make some assumptions.
 • 
Kevin Okun
Is surf therapy effective?
Anyone who surfs has witnessed the end of a bad day transform into the promise of a good one within the same 24-hour span.
 • 
Kevin Okun
Where does wave energy go?
The waves we surf come from near and far, generated by winds pulling at the water's surface.
 • 
Kevin Okun
Why does light dance underwater?
When you look at the seafloor on a sunny day, the light seems to dance all over.
 • 
Kevin Okun
Why don't coastal currents follow the tide? Part 3
We've covered the motivation and the field work of this project. Now comes the payoff - what did all those measurements actually tell us about the…
 • 
Kevin Okun
Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.

Science of Surfing

AboutArchiveRecommendationsSitemap
© 2025 Kevin Okun
Privacy ∙ Terms ∙ Collection notice
Start writingGet the app
Substack is the home for great culture