Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 2

Why don't coastal currents follow the tides? Part 1

Fins Part Four: Why choose a quad setup?

Fins Part Three: Why choose a thruster setup?

Fins Part Two: What animal should we model fins after?

Fins Part One: Why does fin shape matter?

What causes these lines of smooth water?

What happens when marketing meets science?

How can we make warmer wetsuits?

Why do piers have rips?

What is happening to the marine mammals in Southern California?

How is wave height measured?

Why is paddling easier on a bigger board?

Where are the largest waves in the world?

Why does hot water help stingray stings?

Why is shoulder pain so common in surfers?

How does a wetsuit affect your paddling?

What's the difference between cold water and warm water wax?

Why should you wait 72 hours after it rains to surf?

How is wave energy measured?

How can we make faster fins?

Why do some waves barrel?

What does offshore wind do to a wave?

Are river waves actually waves?

© 2025 Kevin Okun
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