Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Why is water colder near the poles?

Why do some waves hold you down longer than others?

Should you sharpen your fins?

Why is the water sometimes glassy after a set?

What makes the V shapes in the sand when waves recede?

Do offshore wind farms ruin the surf?

What makes up a PhD in oceanography?

What does a warmer ocean do to June Gloom?

Why do long-period swells last longer than short-period swells?

Why does water drain out of your nose hours after surfing?

Why are seabirds washing up on California beaches?

What do channels actually do under your board?

How do wave buoys work?

What's the carbon footprint of your surfboard?

How much does wax weigh down your surfboard?

Why is the top layer of sand crunchy?

Why is there more backwash at high tide?

What causes seasickness?

Why Do We Know So Little About the Southern Hemisphere Ocean?

Why Is the Ocean Warmer on the East Coast Than the West Coast?

Why is the Atlantic saltier than the Pacific?

Where Does Sand Come From?

Why do surfers grow bone in their ears?

Should you spread your fingers when paddling?

Why does cold water make you need to pee?

What's the difference between swells and waves?

How do currents change waves?

Why do waves come in sets?

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